Savile Row for Royal Ascot: Where to Commission Morning Dress
Royal Ascot's dress code for the Royal Enclosure is precise: morning dress, with all the formality that entails. Black or grey morning coat, matching waistcoat, striped trousers, black shoes, and a black or grey top hat. For those attending for the first time, the natural question is where to acquire it all. For those who have attended before and grown tired of hired morning dress that fits adequately at best, the answer often leads to Savile Row.
Morning dress is one of the few remaining occasions when this particular form of formal dress is not merely encouraged but required. Ascot, weddings, certain royal garden parties, and memorial services at St Paul's – these are the moments when a well-cut morning coat earns its keep. And whilst there are plenty of places in London to hire morning dress for a day, commissioning bespoke morning dress from a proper Savile Row house is something else entirely.
This is not about extravagance for its own sake. A well-made morning coat, cut to your frame and finished by hand, will outlast most of what hangs in your wardrobe. It sits correctly, moves naturally, and doesn't require constant adjustment. If you attend Ascot regularly, or have other occasions where morning dress is called for, bespoke begins to make practical sense. If you simply want clothing that fits properly and lasts, it makes even more sense.
Why Savile Row for Morning Dress
Savile Row has been the centre of British tailoring since the early 19th century, and morning dress has been part of its repertoire for just as long. The skill required to cut a morning coat – with its cut-away front, shaped tails, and the precision needed to ensure it sits correctly across the shoulders and waist – is considerable. It is not the sort of thing one learns from a pattern book.
The houses on Savile Row and its surrounding streets have been making morning coats for generations. They understand the garment, its proportions, and the demands it places on both cloth and construction. A morning coat from Huntsman or Henry Poole is not simply well-made; it is made by people who have been making them for longer than most of us have been alive.
There is also the question of house style. Savile Row is not monolithic. Each house has its own approach to cutting and construction, and these differences are immediately apparent to anyone who knows what to look for. Some favour a sharper, more military line. Others prefer a softer, draped shoulder. The best tailors will work within their house style whilst accommodating your frame and preferences. The worst will try to force you into a cut that doesn't suit.
For morning dress, this matters. A morning coat is highly structured and formal. If the cut is wrong, or the proportions misjudged, it becomes uncomfortable and looks it. A good Savile Row house will ensure that doesn't happen.
Understanding the Bespoke Process
Bespoke tailoring is not quick, and it is not inexpensive. It is also not remotely mysterious. The process is straightforward: measurements, cloth selection, fittings, and final adjustments. What varies is the time it takes and the level of attention applied at each stage.
The first appointment involves taking measurements and discussing what you need. A good cutter will ask about occasions where you'll wear the coat, your preferences on style, and any particular concerns about fit or comfort. This is where you discuss details: peak or shawl lapels (peak is more traditional for morning coats), button stance, pocket styles, and whether you want working buttonholes on the cuffs.
Cloth selection comes next. Most morning coats are made from black or grey herringbone or plain weave wool. Some houses stock their own cloths; others will source from mills like Dugdale Bros or Holland & Sherry. The choice of cloth affects both the drape and durability of the coat. Heavier cloths hold their shape better but can feel stiff in warm weather. Lighter cloths are more comfortable but require more careful handling.
After the first fitting – typically done with a basted garment that is still loosely stitched together – adjustments are made to the shoulders, chest, and waist. The coat is then finished, and a second fitting follows to ensure everything sits as it should. Some houses do three fittings; others manage with two if the measurements are spot on from the start. Once approved, the coat is fully finished: linings sewn, buttons attached, buttonholes cut and bound by hand.
The waistcoat and trousers follow the same process, though they are generally simpler. Waistcoats for morning dress may be single-breasted or double-breasted, with shawl or peaked lapels. Double-breasted waistcoats are traditional for very formal occasions, whilst single-breasted options are equally correct. Trousers are high-waisted, worn with braces, and usually feature a single stripe down the outside seam in a complementary colour. Black or grey are standard; some prefer a lighter grey or even a subtle check.
Timeline Considerations
Bespoke tailoring requires time. For a full morning dress commission – coat, waistcoat, and trousers – you should allow a minimum of three months from first appointment to final fitting. Many houses prefer four to six months, particularly if they are busy or if your schedule for fittings is limited.
If you are planning to attend Royal Ascot in June and have not yet commissioned your morning dress, late January or early February is the time to begin. Leaving it until April is ambitious. Leaving it until May is unwise.
Some Savile Row houses operate with longer lead times by design. Huntsman, for instance, is known for meticulous work but rarely rushes a commission. If you walk in requesting a morning coat in six weeks, they may accommodate you, but it is not how they prefer to work. Other houses, particularly those with larger workshops, can move more quickly if necessary.
It is worth noting that some tailors will offer made-to-measure as an alternative to full bespoke. Made-to-measure uses pre-existing patterns adjusted to your measurements, rather than cutting a unique pattern from scratch. It is faster, less expensive, and still results in a coat that fits considerably better than anything off the peg. For someone attending Ascot once or twice, made-to-measure may be the more practical option. For someone who will wear morning dress regularly, bespoke is the better long-term investment.
The Savile Row Houses for Morning Dress
Savile Row is home to a number of tailoring houses, each with its own reputation and strengths. Not all specialise in morning dress, and not all suit every client. The following are the houses most commonly recommended for commissioning morning dress, based on their expertise, longevity, and the quality of their work.
Huntsman
Huntsman & Sons, at 11 Savile Row, is perhaps the most famous name in British tailoring. Founded in 1849, the house is known for its sharp, military-influenced cutting and the precision of its work. Huntsman's morning coats are impeccably structured, with a high armhole and defined waist that creates a clean, upright silhouette.
The house has dressed everyone from royalty to film stars, and its reputation for exacting standards is well deserved. Fittings at Huntsman are thorough, and the cutters do not hesitate to make adjustments if something is not quite right. The house is also known for its patience with clients who are new to bespoke tailoring, guiding them through the process without condescension.
Huntsman's style suits those who prefer a formal, structured look. If you want a morning coat that is unmistakably Savile Row – sharp, correct, and finished to the highest standard – Huntsman is an excellent choice.
Dege & Skinner
Dege & Skinner, at 10 Savile Row, holds royal warrants and has been making formal dress and military uniforms since 1865. The house specialises in ceremonial and formal wear, which makes it particularly well-suited for morning dress. Dege & Skinner's cutters understand the demands of formal occasions and the importance of fit and proportion.
The house's style is traditional and restrained. Their morning coats are elegant without being showy, and the quality of their handwork is exceptional. Dege & Skinner also offers a made-to-measure service for clients who need morning dress more quickly or prefer not to commit to full bespoke.
For those attending Ascot or other royal occasions, Dege & Skinner's experience with formal dress codes and royal clients is reassuring. The house knows exactly what is expected and delivers accordingly.
Henry Poole
Henry Poole & Co, at 15 Savile Row, is the oldest tailoring house on the Row, founded in 1806. The house is credited with creating the dinner jacket (exported to America as the tuxedo) and has a long history of dressing European royalty and heads of state.
Henry Poole's style is classic and refined, with a focus on proportion and balance. Their morning coats are beautifully made, with a slightly softer shoulder than Huntsman but still structured enough to maintain formality. The house is known for its cloth selection and its willingness to work with clients on details and customisation.
Henry Poole suits those who appreciate tradition and history but want a coat that feels wearable rather than rigid. The house's reputation is built on consistency and quality, and both are evident in their morning dress.
Anderson & Sheppard
Anderson & Sheppard, at 32 Old Burlington Street (just off Savile Row), is known for its soft, draped shoulder and the elegance of its cutting. The house's style, often referred to as the English drape, creates a coat that sits lightly on the body and moves naturally.
For morning dress, Anderson & Sheppard offers a slightly less formal silhouette than Huntsman or Dege & Skinner, though it is no less well-made. The softer shoulder and natural waist create a coat that is comfortable to wear for an entire day at the races without feeling constricted. This makes Anderson & Sheppard particularly appealing for those who value ease of movement alongside formality.
The house's clientele has historically included writers, actors, and those who prefer understated elegance over military precision. If you want a morning coat that is impeccably tailored but feels less like a uniform, Anderson & Sheppard is worth considering.
Gieves & Hawkes
Gieves & Hawkes, at 1 Savile Row, is one of the larger houses on the Row and offers both bespoke and ready-to-wear tailoring. Formed from the merger of two 18th-century establishments – Hawkes (founded 1771) and Gieves (founded 1785) – the combined house has a long association with military and formal dress.
Gieves & Hawkes' bespoke service is highly regarded, and their morning coats are well-cut and finished to a high standard. The house's style is traditional, with a focus on structure and formality. For those who want the reassurance of a well-established name and the option of ready-to-wear if bespoke proves impractical, Gieves & Hawkes is a sensible choice.
The house also offers made-to-measure morning dress, which can be completed more quickly than full bespoke and at a lower cost. For clients attending Ascot for the first time or unsure about committing to bespoke, this is a useful middle ground.
Davies & Son
Davies & Son, at 38 Savile Row, is a smaller, quieter house with a reputation for exceptional handwork and attention to detail. The house has been operating since 1803 and remains family-run, which gives it a more personal feel than some of the larger establishments.
Davies & Son's morning coats are beautifully made, with a focus on fit and proportion. The house's cutters take time to understand each client's needs and preferences, and the fittings are thorough. The style is traditional without being overly rigid, and the quality of the finishing is outstanding.
For those who prefer a less commercial, more personal experience, Davies & Son is an excellent option. The house may not have the name recognition of Huntsman or Henry Poole, but the quality of the work speaks for itself.
What to Expect
Commissioning bespoke morning dress from Savile Row is an investment, and it is worth understanding what you are paying for. The cost reflects the time, skill, and materials involved in creating a garment that is cut and made specifically for you.
A full morning dress commission – coat, waistcoat, and trousers – typically involves multiple fittings, handwork throughout, and cloth sourced from reputable mills. The coat alone may take several weeks to complete once cutting begins, and the final result should fit better than anything you could buy ready-made or hire.
Pricing varies between houses, and it is not always indicative of quality. Some houses charge more because of their reputation; others because their work is genuinely exceptional. It is worth visiting several houses, speaking with their cutters, and understanding their approach before committing to a commission.
Most Savile Row houses are accommodating when it comes to consultations. You can book an appointment, discuss your needs, and get a sense of whether the house and its style suit you. There is no obligation to proceed, and a good cutter will be honest about timelines, costs, and what is achievable.
Finding the Right House
The tailors listed here represent the best of Savile Row for morning dress, but they are not the only options. Other houses, including Norton & Sons, Richard Anderson, and Kilgour, also offer excellent bespoke tailoring and are worth considering.
Ultimately, the choice of tailor depends on your preferences, timeline, and budget. Some prefer the sharper, more structured style of Huntsman. Others favour the softer drape of Anderson & Sheppard or the traditional elegance of Henry Poole. The best approach is to visit several houses, speak with their cutters, and see which feels right.
For a full directory of London tailors specialising in morning dress, including contact details and further information on each house's approach, visit the Holloway & Hare Tailors Directory.
Morning dress from Savile Row is not a necessity. It is, however, one of the few remaining examples of British craftsmanship at its best, and for those who attend Ascot or other formal occasions regularly, it is clothing that will last a lifetime and always fit properly. That, in itself, is worth considering.