Ritual Notes: The Barbers and Bars of St. James's

The barbers and bars of St. James's have been doing things properly for rather a long time. Which is why people keep going back.

The Barbers

Truefitt & Hill on St. James's Street opened in 1805, making it the oldest barbershop in the world. Churchill came here. Sinatra too. The mahogany cubicles remain, the hot towel technique has been refined across two centuries, and the barbers still address you as 'sir' without a trace of irony.

Geo. F. Trumper has been on Duke of York Street since 1875. George Trumper was both barber and master perfumer, which explains why you can get a shave and buy cologne in the same establishment. Waugh mentioned the place in Brideshead Revisited. Fleming referenced their Eucris scent in a Bond novel. The mahogany panelling and private cubicles are unchanged.

The Bars

Dukes Bar has occupied St. James's Place since 1908. The martini trolley, the two-drink limit, the frozen gin poured tableside. Ian Fleming drank here regularly, which tells you something. Dark panelling, velvet seating, the murmur of conversation.

The American Bar at The Stafford is found via Blue Bell Yard. Baseball caps and regimental ties hang from the ceiling, collected since the 1930s. The leather banquettes have absorbed decades of confidences, the barmen wear green jackets, and nobody rushes you. American and Canadian officers sheltered here during the war, which explains the atmosphere.

St. James Bar at the Sofitel occupies the old Cox & Company bank building from 1923. Velvet banquettes, warm lighting, a painted cockerel in military dress on the ceiling. A drawing room that happens to serve excellent cocktails.

The Routine

Three bars, two barbers. Makes a pleasant afternoon - haircut, shave, then round to the bar. The same combination each month, or vary it. There are clubs, naturally. But you may find there is no replacement for having Alessandro Palazzi's martini at Dukes.

Images: Trumper’ and Dukes Bar in St. James's, London